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Sewing Original Buckskin Clothing
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Sewing Today
"Authentic" sewing of fur or
buckskin clothing today is most often done with a glover's needle using either artificial sinew or
a waxed natural fiber, like linen. Though the tools and thread have changed, the types and sizes of
"authentic" stitches have not.
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Original Sewing
Original sewing was done with smaller, more
time-consuming stitches than most people today are willing to imitate. Running
stitches (drawing 1 below) should be 1/8" to 3/16" (4.8mm) long, and Whip
stitches (drawing 2) about 1/8" (3.2mm) apart. We have seen a few
originals, but very few, with running stitches up to 5/16" long.
Many originals, especially fur items, were made with even smaller stitches. Patching tears or holes was also done
with small stitches. Exceptions to these were rifle cases, and neck flaps added to shirts. On these the
Running stitches were up to 3/8" (8 - 9.5mm) long, and Whip stitches about 1/4" (6.4mm)
apart.
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Thonging
When we say "thonging" many people
think of "lacing". Thonging (drawing 3 above) is like "spot"
stitching, except a thin 6" long (15cm) strip of buckskin is used instead of thread.
Thonging was used to make buckskin clothing of western native men until the
mid-to late-1800's (depending on the nation).
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Lacing
Lacing (drawing 4 above) is also a thin strip
of leather, but about 1/3 longer than the length of the seam. Matching holes are
punched about 1/2" apart (12.7mm) in both pieces of buckskin the entire length of the seam.
Many today first glue the seam to hold the buckskin pieces in place while working.
The lace is then inserted up and down through the holes in both pieces of buckskin
the entire seam. With a couple rare exceptions lacing was
NOT used to make original buckskin clothing. Even on those rare exceptions
lacing was only used for a small portion of the garment, with the majority of the garment
being sewn.
Lacing is used by most makers of buckskin clothing today, because it significantly decreases the time needed
to make an item. Lacing also decreases the quality and eliminates
authenticity. Machine sewing reduces manufacturing time even more. If someone is
charging low or very low prices compared to authentically made products, you can be sure they are lacing or
machine sewing.
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Caution! Some use a little tool
called a lacing "needle" to lace their clothing. Then they claim their
buckskin clothing is hand-sewn, because they used a "needle". It is still
lacing, no matter how they do it. Others simply use the word "sewn" to
give the impression of authenticity when, in fact, their products are machine sewn.
Still others use a large glover's needle and sinew, but make 1/2" (12.7mm) long stitches.
Technically their buckskin clothing is "hand-sewn", but such
long stitches are nothing more than unauthentic lacing with sinew to cut
their time in making an item. Ask about their methods
of workmanship before buying, or you may get something of low quality and much less than
authentic. [Top of Page] |
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